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第 370 课:Appreciating Armani 魅力无限亚曼尼-1

Fashion followers fortunate enough to be in Spain between March and August this year will surely not want to pass up an exhibition at the Guggenheim Museum in the northern city of Bilbao. 流行时尚的拥护者们如果有幸能在今年三月至八月前往西班牙,一定不想错过在北方城市毕尔巴鄂、古根海姆博物馆举办的展览。

Its subject is the work of a talismanic designer whose enormous appeal took a clothing label to unprecedented heights in brand-name recognition. 展览的主题是一位设计奇才的作品,其无穷的魅力使一个服装品牌打进名牌殿堂,到达前所未见的巅峰。

The exhibition, called simply "Giorgio Armani," covers the designer's twenty-five-year development and contribution to fashion and culture. 这个展览简称“乔治亚曼尼”,它涵括了这名设计师二十五年来的发展和对流行文化的贡献。

Clothes from different stages of Armani's career are displayed in a loose narrative arrangement, and many of the designs feature his trademark color, the mixture of grey and beige that came to be known as "Armani greige." 亚曼尼在不同阶段设计的服饰,分别不规则地呈现在各个主题区。他众多的设计均能明显地展示他的品牌色彩: 将灰色及米黄色调配而成的“亚曼尼米灰色”。

Also on display are the romantic traditions of European fashion and selections demonstrating influences and fabrics from regions as diverse as China, India, and Polynesia. 这场展览同时展出的,有他沿用欧陆传统浪漫风味的作品,以及深受中国、印度、波里尼西亚等地域影响,

There is even a section containing movie costumes and outfits worn at the Oscars and other ceremonial occasions, illustrating the glamour and cultural status of the Armani brand. 用当地纺织原料所精心制作的服装,甚至还有一个区域专门展示他设计的电影服装,以及专为奥斯卡颁奖典礼或其他隆重场合的出席嘉宾设计的服饰,这些都验证了亚曼尼品牌的迷人魅力与文化上的地位。

The garments are complemented by a selection of photographs and sketches. 服饰旁边还有精选的照片及设计草图。

The exhibition's appearance in Bilbao follows on the heels of an earlier successful stint at the New York Guggenheim, where there was some minor criticism among the acclaim. 之所以能在毕尔巴鄂举行这项展览,要归功于稍前在纽约古根海姆美术馆的成功展出。在纽约一片喝采声中,只有为数很少的批评之声。

Art purists castigated the Museum for promoting commercial concerns, while others, who feel Armani's best days are behind him, pointed out that a museum is where his designs belong. 艺术纯粹主义者斥责美术馆是在替商业行为做宣传,但是也有人认为亚曼尼日后必定会取得非凡的成就,他的作品应该陈列在博物馆里。